Agrapart & Fils Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Terrior NV

Description

Agrapart is a serious grower owning ten hectares at Avize, Cramant, Oger and Oiry, producing storable wines vinified in oak barrels of varying sizes. The wines are sometimes a bit rustic, but rich in extracts and needing time to develop fully. As much as 60% goes on export. I fell especially for the Terroirs which is creamy and impressively intense with Cramant as its guiding star. Rounded, nutty and syrupy. With such a voluminous structure it ought to be designated as vintage.

Agraparts’ NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Terroirs as usual for this cuvee – sourced roughly half-each from two vintages (here, complementary 2009 and 2008); grown entirely in Avize, Cramant, Oger and Oiry; vinified roughly one-quarter in demi-muid; and aged one year longer sur latte than their “7 Crus.” Effusively sweet and musky floral perfume suggesting heliotrope, narcissus, and lily-of-the-valley along with sourdough-like, pungent yeastiness and malted grain are allied in the nose to intimations of chalk dust, sea breeze and white peach. Lusciously juicy, fresh white peach and grapefruit are threaded on the polished palate with piquant peach kernel, pungent suggestions of sprouting grains, chalk, and salt. The sense of tension and vivacity here managing to harmonize with textural richness and caress is quite remarkable, especially considering that we’re only on the second rung of Agrapart’s portfolio. The finish engages imagination, salivary glands, and olfactors in equally strong measure, a suggestion of chewing peach fuzz and germinating sprouts compounding the sheer invigoration conveyed by this sensational value. (And bear in mind that this tasting note was made from a bottle that had only been disgorged a week before!) Plan to follow it for at least 4-5 years. Wine Advocate 94